The House of Dior
In late 1946, Marcel Boussac, a textile manufacturer and one of the wealthiest men in France, invited Dior to help resurrect the house of Philippe et Gaston. Dior declined; he wanted his own house. Boussac agreed to finance it and gave Dior ten million francs, along with a business manager, Jacques Rouèt. Dior was guaranteed creative control and one-third of the profits. The house opened on 8 October 1946, on 30 Avenue Montaigne, with 85 staff members, seven models, and a salon decorated, by Victor Grandpierre and Christian Bérard, in black, white and gray. His head of millinery was also his muse, Mitzah Bricard. On 12 February 1947, the House of Dior presented its first collection, "Corolla", which was 90 garments displayed in ensembles. Dior's designs caused a sensation, in part because it was a time of austerity and he was presenting luxurious clothing in cambric-lined silk and satin. Dior explained: "We came from an epoch of war and uniforms, with women like soldiers with boxers' shoulders. I designed flower women, soft shoulders, full busts, waists as narrow as lianas and skirts as corollas." Harper's Bazaar editor Carmel Snow called it "The New Look", and the term came to apply to the style of Dior, and others, for the next five years.
The Corolla line was drawn from Edwardian era styles, with Dior refining and crystallizing trends in skirt shape and waistline that had been burgeoning since the 1930s. The house employed Pierre Cardin as head of tailoring for its first three years; it was he who designed one of the most popular Corolla ensembles, the "Bar Suit", which was purchased by buyers worldwide. Dior's fall 1947 collection, the Figure of Eight, continued with longer, more bell-shaped skirts, more bust emphasis, bulkier coats, and an alternate narrow silhouette with small shoulders and waists. To achieve the look, however, women needed a complicated selection of undergarments which, in itself, caused enough of a stir that Pathé News made a short film about it. Each season thereafter, Dior would feature a new "line": the Envol and Cloche lines in 1948, the Pockets and Blused lines in 1949, the Vertical and Oblique lines in 1950, the Oval and Long lines in 1951, the Sinueuse and Profilėe lines in 1952, the Tulipe and Vivante/Cupola lines in 1953, the Muguet/Lily of the Valley and H-Line of 1954, the A-Line and Y-Line in 1955, the Aimant/Magnet line in 1956, and the Libre/Free and Fuseau/Spindle lines of 1957.
Dior's 1954 H-line was met with controversy because it had the effect of binding the torso from the neckline to the hips, and flattened the bust. His intention was to give an impression of youth by freeing the waist and lifting the bust, but critics pronounced the silhouette "flat" and too similar to the flapper look of the late 1920s. The bust-binding would be fleeting, but the emphasis on youth and a less constrained waist would continue into the 1960s. The tension between heavily structured clothes and more relaxed, comfortable clothes characterized 1950s fashion, with Jacques Fath and Simonetta among those favoring heavy structure and Chanel and Balmain on the side of ease and comfort. The move toward ease could be seen in several of Dior's collections, and his spring 1952 Sinueuse line comprised soft blouses, cardigans, and skirts. All Dior collections from 1955 onward were less confining, although he, and almost all 1950s designers, presented hobbling sheath skirts throughout the decade.
The other source of occasional controversy for Dior was hemlines, an obsession in the 1950s. His fall 1953 Cupola line included some skirts that raised the hemline to lengths that were startling to many. Though they still covered the knee, they were short enough to inspire protest—in the US, the anti-Dior Little Below the Knee Club was founded. His fall 1956 Aimant line contained a handful of day skirts that dropped the hemline almost to the ankle, another startling move to some observers.
Dior's success was sufficiently rapid that the House of Dior produced accessories of all kinds, including hats, scarves, handbags and jewellery. In 1947, the ground floor of the atelier became Colifichets ("trifles"), a tiny boutique decorated in red and white, which became Dior's first retail store. It was so successful that it eventually expanded to sell ready-to-wear clothing with the Colifichets label. In October 1948, Dior opened his second store, this time on New York's Fifth Avenue, where he offered an exclusive assortment designed specifically for American women and their more casual lifestyle. From here, he provided his products to department stores throughout the US and Canada. He was not the first to do so; couturiers such as Fath and Marcelle Dormoy had been licensing their designs to American clothing manufacturers for some time, and Dessès and Balmain would soon follow. However, with his profitability and Boussac's deep pockets, he was able to offer ready-to-wear clothing, and at a much larger scale. By the one-year anniversary of the store's opening, Dior's products accounted for 75% of French fashion exports and 5% of France’s annual export revenue.
In 1949, he toured the US, visiting department stores, hosting shows, and signing new clients. He encountered legal problems when he was called before the American Anti-Trust Division for what he described as a "terrifying examination" over his insistence that clients sign a contract to not copy his designs, an experience that taught him that "the pillaging of artistic creation is not only authorized in the United States, but encouraged." Dior was preoccupied with fraud. He learned that forgers were circulating albums of reproduced drawings, writing: "In 1955 alone, more than 1,000 subscribers procured about 300 models [designs] from the collections of the principal French couturiers. One hundred and forty-two of my own models figured in the album, of which 57 were exact copies." His showings strictly prohibited sketching and were carefully policed; buyers had to agree not to allow any of his dresses to be passed on to other members of the fashion trade. Each dress bore a secret mark underneath the lining to catch anyone who broke their word.
In 1953, Dior entered into a collaborative relationship with the American shoe manufacturer Herman Delman who, beginning in 1938, was the employer of the French shoe designer Roger Vivier. Dior had always worked with the most prominent footwear designer of the time, Andre Perugia; now he was co-designing shoes with Delman and Vivier. Until 1962, shoes contained the label 'Delman-Dior' or 'Dior-Delman'. The three men worked together; Dior might begin a dress design from a Vivier shoe design, and that design may have been created at the request, or inspiration of, Herman Delman. Delman and Dior established a made-to-order division in Paris, which continued well into the 1960s.
Dior created his first fragrance, Miss Dior, in 1947. To manage Parfums Dior, he partnered with a friend from Granville, Serge Heftler-Louiche, who was the general manager of Parfums Coty. Miss Dior was followed by Diorama in 1948, Eau Fraiche in 1952, and Diorissimo in 1956. By then, the House of Dior in Paris had expanded to seven stories and 28 workrooms. Parfums Christian Dior and Christian Dior Hosiery were established in Paris and New York. In 1952, C.D. Models was founded in London, and a replica of the retail boutique was opened in Caracas. Jacques Rouët had devised a licensing program that now included ties, hosiery, furs, hats, gloves, handbags, jewelry, lingerie, and scarves. Dior's peers at the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode denounced this as the cheapening of couture and damaging to the image of high fashion, but Rouët's licensing plan would become the template followed by all large brands going forward. In 1952, the New York Times reported that "the gross annual income of the eight Christian Dior companies, in France and overseas, comes to $17,000,000."
By the mid-1950s, the Dior empire included eight companies and 16 affiliates, and employed 1,700 people on five continents. By the time the house celebrated its tenth anniversary in 1957, it had sold 100,000 garments. Though only 52, Dior, who was a workaholic and fond of eating, was succumbing to the effects of his life's frenetic pace and had suffered a heart attack. He was planning his retirement and named his 21 year-old assistant Yves Saint Laurent as his successor. After his death that year, the Christian Dior brand continued to grow in all areas; as of 2026, it was valued at over $20 billion (US).
